Alaska 27 June to 3 august 2023

Remember how I ended 'Alaska 2021'? I asked: "Should I try again? So what do you think, would it be worth it to try the trek one more time?"

Well, here is the answer: A resounding 'Yes'! 

First of all, as a foreigner, I have no 'right' to visit the US, visiting is a privilege that you have to earn. Luckily, I have always been granted approval and this year was no exception; with this ESTA permit I can visit until March 2025. Thank you America!  

Like I said in the 2021 page, in 2023 I will go earlier in the year. More melt-water in the rivers might be an issue as might be the mosquitoes (they disappear in late August with the frosty nights). I will have to deal with that. On the brighter side is brighter weather, longer days and higher temperatures, hopefully no snow this time! Bee Choo helped me secure this ticket with United Airlines via Tokyo and Chicago. CHICAGO? isn't that way out east? Yes, the route doesn't make sense but it was the cheapest this year! Adding additional charges for window seats on all connections, the total ticket cost came to S$2,619/US$1,940. 

ETA Fairbanks 27 June. I actually have a return reservation (7 August), but with unlimited free change of dates I consider this an open ticket and I will return to Singapore when I am good and ready. 

I am coming into Fairbanks late in the evening 27 June, so I will go to a hotel nearby and rest. I have never been here, Sven's Basecamp Hostel, but it sounds nice and rustic and is walking distance from the Wright Air landing strip off South University Avenue. 

I HAVE TO make that transfer in Chicago, I only have 1 hr 48 min to clear immigration and go to another terminal. It MUST work! 

I will spend 28 June collecting supplies for the hike in Fairbanks.

I have my ticket to Anaktuvuk Pass arranged for 29 June. See Alaska 2021 for how the Wright Air connection works. They even gave me a senior citizen discount again (full price is $190); prices are the same as 2021, who said 'terrible American inflation'? 

I can't wait to go! 

Watch this space for an update when I get back ...

29 June 2023. Old-timer bush pilot Louis working for Wright Air flies us from Fairbanks north into the Brooks Range. 'We' were two hiker ladies that we stopped on the way and dropped off in Coldfoot, and then me and a native lady with two kids heading for Anaktuvuk Pass. The weather was shitty, but here we successfully approach the long village runway.   

I spent the night at the Nunamiut guest house in Anaktuvuk Pass and heading out for my hike the next day, 30 June. This is the crest of the Continental Divide and a repeat of the view from two years earlier, see 'Alaska 2021'. 

People often ask me: "Did you see any wildlife in the Brooks Range?" My reply: "Very little". Here is one animal I did NOT see, and I wasn't all that keen to meet it anyway: The Grizzly Bear! Some tracks along Clear River, there were plenty along the Anaktuvuk River and the Glacier River as well. Further south in the tall spruce forest, Black Bear occurs as well. There was a bear attack at Anaktuvuk River the week prior to me camping there, so the locals told me to be careful. A fella was mauled and had to be evacuated by Learjet, he probably had a big fat medical insurance, I don't! The park service got involved but didn't hunt down the bear, it turned out to be a female with two cubs just doing what comes natural to a protective mother.  

15 July. Look how the scenery has changed! As you will see in the more detailed report below, the hike was hard. There were times when I regretted the whole project: When it rained days in a row, when I tumbled down a ravine, when the river carried me off! But then there were also enchanting moments such as reaching the top of Chimney Pass and seeing this: A stunningly beautiful lake, all alone, miles from civilization. I suspect years go by where no one goes here: MAGIC!  

There are two things I love about the state of Alaska: The enormity of the place, the freedom to go and to camp anywhere you like, the sheer beauty of the mountains, the occasional wildlife sighting. And then there are the people, you will never find a better bunch of guys (and the infrequent gal ...) anywhere on the planet. When I arrived at (the abandoned) road to Nolan Creek mining area 19 July, I called Jay on my satellite phone to tell him where I was. He immediately said: "I will come out tomorrow morning and pick you up on my four-wheeler". True to his word, here is Jay 20 July taking me back to rural civilization. THANKS A BILLION, JAY! I owe you, buddy! 

I don't really like to be in debt, but I owe Karl as well! We met for the first time on this occasion. This is the next day, 21 July and Karl is Bill's son, his only biological child. Karl is an ex-marine corp officer and has taken over his Dad's gold mining camp and operation near the Koyukuk River, here we pose together before crossing the Middlefork. Now retired from the military, Karl has re-invented himself into a gold miner, property investor and businessman. He is also your typical can-do-it-all, self reliant Alaskan tough-guy. His dad Bill (1936-2016) would be proud of him.    

The next day, 22 July, Karl drove down to Fairbanks with his family and his friend and assistant Josh. So the camp at Karl's creek was empty and Karl suggested I stayed there for a few days. I stayed in this same old cabin for five days on my own, just like I did 49 years ago in March and April 1974. Thanks, Karl for letting me re-live this experience. 

A mile or so upstream from the river, Karl's creek narrows down into a tight canyon; beyond this point you cannot drive in any equipment and only hand-mining is possible. See the steep hill on the right?  

If you climb up onto this ridge, this is the view looking west towards the source of the stream. The rope and tarp at the bottom is where Karl does some mining. I will explain the significance of this ridge a bit later.  

But back to the fine people of Alaska. 27 July 2023. Mission accomplished, I was ready to leave Karl's creek and the Koyukuk region and start the long haul back to Singapore. I packed up from the camp, crossed the Middlefork and walked out to the Dalton Highway. My plan was to hitch-hike down to Coldfoot and maybe catch a Wright Air flight back to Fairbanks. I waited for 20 minutes before the first vehicle in any direction turned up. But that one stopped and Burly took me down to Coldfoot Camp where he stopped for a coffee. Then Burly said: "If you are going down to Fairbanks, Morten, you might as well ride with me, I am driving down today". That is the Alaskans for you! 255 miles/410 km means little to them. Thanks, Burly, I enjoyed your company all the way!  

Later that day, 27 July, Burly took me all the way to Fairbanks International Airport where I arranged for a flight back home and then  took a taxi to Sven's Basecamp Hostel where I got this little cabin to stay in for the night. If I look ragged and puny it is because I was! If you ever want to lose weight, just walk from Anaktuvuk Pass to Wiseman (the Nolan Road will do!). There is no way you can carry enough food to sustain your weight, the body will first eat up all your fat reserves and then start cannibalizing on your muscle tissue! I lost 10% of my body mass in three weeks; it will take me weeks and months to build my bulk and strength back up! 

And how much did this trip cost me? About USD4,315 (= SGD5,800), by camping and staying with friends I was way below budget. Some of the best money I have EVER spent. 

I am already planning my next Alaska trip, maybe I should bring Bee Choo (again ...) next time, see 'Alaska 2008'. But I will never hike for days or weeks off trail again. I am too weak, it is too hard, and the risk of getting lost or ending up in an accident or injury is no longer acceptable to me.